Chef Jesse Ito responds to speculation surrounding Michelin’s Bib Gourmand award for Royal Sushi.
The recent announcement of the Michelin Guide’s inaugural accolades for the Philadelphia restaurant scene has evoked a range of emotions, from joy and surprise to disappointment among chefs and diners alike. The prestigious event, held at the Kimmel Center, marked a significant milestone for the city and was met with both celebration and unexpected outcomes.
Among the highlights of the evening was the attention given to Royal Sushi & Izakaya, a highly anticipated contender for a Michelin star. However, instead of receiving the coveted star, the establishment was honored with a Bib Gourmand, a designation that recognizes restaurants offering “exceptionally good food at moderate prices.” This award, although esteemed, left many in attendance, including loyal patrons of chef Jesse Ito, feeling perplexed. Ten Philadelphia restaurants, including notable names like Angelo’s, Dizengoff, and Pizzeria Beddia, were awarded Bib Gourmands, showcasing the city’s culinary talent.
Chef Ito’s Royal Sushi & Izakaya features a dual-concept structure, with an omakase counter offering exquisite sushi experiences—a distinguishing feature that sets it apart from the more casual izakaya-style dining up front. The intricacies of this concept may explain why the Michelin inspectors chose to recognize only the izakaya side, where dishes are priced modestly between and , as opposed to the pricier omakase menu, which can reach 5 per person.
Despite the confusion surrounding the award, Ito expressed pride in receiving the Bib Gourmand distinction, emphasizing the importance of representation, particularly with the upcoming FIFA World Cup and Philadelphia’s 250th anniversary approaching. However, the chef acknowledged the challenges and anxieties tied to his restaurant’s recognition, especially considering his previous disappointments with the James Beard Foundation.
In response to his dual-concept model, Ito has contemplated ways to delineate the two dining experiences further, potentially easing the reservation process for the omakase. Yet, he recognized the delicate balance of maintaining relationships with his regular patrons while accommodating new guests. This exclusivity issue inadvertently impacts his restaurant’s visibility in award considerations as well.
In the aftermath of the Michelin announcement, Ito returned to what he loves: creating culinary art and nurturing customer relationships. Following the ceremony, he was actively involved at his new venture, dancerobot, engaging with guests and enjoying the celebration. The evening culminated with Ito’s signature karaoke moment, where he celebrated not just his culinary achievements but the community he has fostered over the years.
Ultimately, this year’s Michelin event served as a reminder of the evolving landscape of the Philadelphia culinary scene, marked by both recognition and the nuanced complexities of restaurant accolades. Chef Jesse Ito’s journey reflects a broader narrative in the culinary world, where passion, innovation, and the love of gastronomy continue to reign.
