Fashion brands criticized for neglecting workers while taking shortcuts on climate commitments.
A recent report has drawn attention to prominent fashion brands, including luxury label Hermes, sportswear giant Nike, and fast fashion retailer H&M, facing scrutiny over allegations of “greenwashing” as they grapple with the impacts of climate change on garment workers in Southeast Asia. This region is a vital hub for global garment production, accounting for more than 50 percent of the industry.
The report, released by the Business & Human Rights Resource Centre (BHRRC) and titled “The Missing Thread,” examined 65 international fashion brands. Notably, it revealed that while 44 of these companies have made public commitments to reduce carbon emissions, none have implemented a “Just Transition” policy. This concept, which gained traction during COP27 in Egypt in 2022, aims to ensure that workers are not marginalized as industries transition to a low-carbon economy.
The analysis highlighted that only 11 out of the 65 companies acknowledged the climate-related challenges faced by workers in their social and human rights policies. Alarmingly, only four provided any guidance on managing heat-related stress, a crucial concern amid rising temperatures. Among the brands identified as leaders in this area were Inditex, the parent company of Zara, and Kering, which owns Gucci. These companies have taken steps to address worker welfare in their operations, showcasing a commitment to ethical standards.
According to Natalie Swan, the labor rights programme manager at BHRRC, decarbonization efforts must include workers as fundamental partners. She emphasized that without a holistic approach, transitioning to a green economy risks becoming an inadequate response to significant challenges. Swan remarked that meaningful engagement with workers and their unions not only fulfills a moral obligation but also presents an essential opportunity to create a more equitable and sustainable fashion industry.
The global textile sector currently consumes 98 million tonnes of non-renewable resources annually, contributing significantly to environmental degradation. If current trends continue, the fashion industry is projected to account for over 25 percent of global greenhouse gas emissions by 2050. As climate change worsens, its effects are increasingly palpable in Southeast Asia, where garment workers in countries like Bangladesh, Cambodia, Indonesia, and Vietnam are encountering extreme weather events, including soaring temperatures and severe flooding.
In Bangladesh, reports of workers fainting due to heat-related illnesses have surfaced, alongside claims that factories have not equipped employees with necessary resources like fans or drinking water. Cambodia has similarly witnessed challenges, with temperatures frequently surpassing 39 degrees Celsius during heatwaves in 2022.
Automation poses additional hurdles; approximately one-third of workers have experienced job losses linked to technological advancements. This trend has disproportionately affected women in the workforce, who often lack access to training on new technologies and experience barriers to on-the-job learning opportunities.
The call for a comprehensive approach that harmonizes environmental sustainability with worker welfare is increasingly urgent in the global fashion sector. As stakeholders engage in the necessary dialogue to build a more sustainable industry, the experiences of workers must remain at the forefront of these discussions.
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