New Pine Street Grill Opens, Celebrating Iconic Philly Dish and Paying Homage to the Former Dmitri’s Restaurant.
Restaurants often come and go, yet some iconic dishes endure beyond the lifespan of the venues that once showcased them. One such dish is the Milan salad, a deconstructed take on the classic BLT, replete with shrimp and dressed in a unique Italian-Russian sauce. Popularized by Jimmy’s Milan, a beloved Rittenhouse supper club that closed its doors over three decades ago, the salad has found new life just two blocks away at D’Angelo’s, co-founded by Tony D’Angelo, who once sat at the helm of Milan’s kitchen. By ordering the D’Angelo’s salad, patrons can embark on a nostalgic culinary journey reminiscent of the past.
In a similar vein, restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow, currently preparing to debut his new upscale establishment Mr. Edison at the Bellevue next year, has expressed intentions to revive other culinary classics from Philadelphia’s rich dining landscape. One such dish is the galette de crabe, notably crafted by Georges Perrier, the mastermind behind Le Bec-Fin, who transformed the traditional Maryland crab cake into a celebrated staple.
Another popular dish that has made a reappearance is shrimp pil pil, first introduced in the mid-1990s by restaurateur Dmitri Chimes at his Washington Square West tapas bar, Pamplona. The dish, characterized by its bold flavors of chili and garlic combined with a refreshing burst of lemon, has also been featured across all locations of Chimes’ Greek eatery, Dmitri’s. This appetizer served as a perfect precursor for heartier entrees such as smoky char-grilled octopus or a hearty bowl of cioppino.
When chefs Amanda Shulman and Alex Kemp began planning their restaurant, Pine Street Grill, located at 23rd and Pine Streets, which previously housed a Dmitri’s from 1999 to 2014, they consulted with local residents to understand their dining desires. Repeatedly, references to Dmitri’s surfaced.
Kemp reached out to Chimes for the original recipe, which Chimes personally delivered. Both Shulman and Kemp are excited to honor Chimes’ legacy. While they acknowledge it could never be an exact replication, they incorporated elements of the original recipe while adding their unique spin.
At Pine Street Grill, the shrimp pil pil is garnished with six jumbo shrimp immersed in a creamier, more herbaceous sauce than the original. Thoughtfully, the dish also includes grilled bread, allowing diners to savor every drop of the delightful sauce. As they continue to evolve their menu, one can only hope that the duo will consider introducing other beloved Greek dishes such as spanikopita or baklava, further enriching the culinary tapestry of the area.
